Varanasi is one of the world’s oldest living cities and Hinduism’s holiest, with stepped ghats lining the Ganges, dawn boat rides and the nightly aarti ceremony. The old city’s riverside lanes are full of cheap guesthouses, while larger hotels are further inland.
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The main ghat, where the evening aarti takes place, with guesthouses in the old lanes.
A relaxed southern ghat with cafés, yoga and many budget stays.
The busy crossroads above the ghats, with hotels close to the old city.
A quieter area near the railway station, with larger and chain hotels.
Where the Buddha gave his first sermon, just outside the city, with quiet guesthouses.
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October–March is the best time; festivals such as Dev Deepawali in November draw big crowds and higher prices. Summer is very hot and the monsoon can flood the ghats.
Guesthouses in the old-city lanes near Dashashwamedh and Assi ghats are usually the cheapest.
A boat ride on the Ganges at dawn or during the evening aarti is the classic way to see the riverfront.
During major festivals such as Dev Deepawali, and in the peak winter months; book early for those dates.